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Silence is not always golden

Just because a dog ISN’T lunging or barking it doesn’t mean to say that they are not scared, anxious or unhappy

In my experience of working many years with anxious dogs online and in person with Cheltenham dog owners I’ve seen many dogs who have silent conversations.

  • Avoidance of other dogs
  • Freezing
  • Rapid movements, no ability to focus
  • Salivating excessively
  • Shutting down

Just because a dog isn’t lunging or barking it doesn’t mean it’s not scared, however many owners aims are to have a quiet and calm dog.

I mean what’s more embarrassing then Fido pulling, lunging and barking down the road?

However dog owners, like yourself want your dogs to be HAPPY.

A happy dog means a stronger bond, a happy dog means one that can join you on a walk, a dog that does not bite or stop visitors wanting to come round.

So how do we determine if a dogs happy?

How do we know if it’s shutting down?

šŸ¾ Body language

As a dog owner it’s often hard to read your dog’s body language. But often you will see them exaggerate certain behaviours and completely freezing or as I call it ‘getting stuck’ this is a sure sign that your dog is not happy.

Of course all dogs are individuals. That’s why I can’t be too specific in my posts – my posts are more of an educational tool.

šŸ¾ Watching your dog

But what you will need is a more experienced eye, an expert, or even by watching dogs in the field having many of these silent conversations you will learn so much.

Over the past few years I’ve met a few incredibly anxious dogs – now saying met, in fact I didn’t meet them in a normal sense.

I could see instantly, from a safe distance and set up they were not 100% happy in my presence.

šŸ¾ Time, distance and gradual introductions

Did I lure them to come over with a treat, no.

Did I go up and stroke them, certainly not.

I give them time, distance, gradual introductions.

Simply teaching them to lye in their bed or some trick training is not going to solve the underlying issues.

A dog who’s tense and anxious in his bed or a dog doing a weave under my leg just to get a treat (despite being scared) is not a happy one.

I am not prepared to put a dog in a situation that will make it feel uncomfortable as above.

šŸ¾ A happy confident dog

So the take home from my post – I’m not just here to stop your dog barking, I’m here to achieve so much more.

A happy, confident dog, one that you can enjoy walks with.

I don’t want to see a shut down dog, a dog that’s unhappy.

So if you call us out for a consultation, don’t be surprised if we ask your dog to be in a separate room, or begin by some parallel walking outside.

Your dog’s welfare, your safety is the priority.

Thanks for reading,
Helen & Tristan

If you need in person support with your dog in Cheltenham and throughout Gloucestershire, please get in contact:

helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

We never judge you or your dog and are always here for a chat.

Training a Reactive Dog – A Labour of Love: Part One

Part One : Uh-oh, dog ownership isnā€™t quite what I imaginedā€¦

We loved the look of Binx when we first saw his amber eyes in the dog rescue shelter. He was a 1 year-old black lab-pointer, and ever so beautiful. The rehoming centre didn’t know anything about his past life, but their basic assessments revealed he was both dog and people friendly and had a bouncy puppy-like nature. We couldn’t wait to give him a forever home. For more on dog training, check this new post about GDW.

On bringing Binx home, however, it didn’t take long for us to uncover some issues. Despite no previous training he actually settled quite quickly into a routine around the house, but whenever we took him out on a walk he became incredibly anxious and reactive. We immediately knew we would need dog obedience training. Binx would tuck his tail down, pin back his ears, fix his gaze, weave frantically, pant heavily and pull strongly on his lead. He barked at other dogs and even some people and lunged at most small fast-moving objects. He was nervous around so many seemingly normal things. It was as if he’d never been exposed to the outdoor world, and all normal doggy behaviours were completely foreign to him. Use this link to learn more about what are the best bike locks.

We quickly sought the advice of the canine behaviourist from the rescue centre, who simply recommended starting a herbal calming medication and advised us to avoid the anxiety triggers. We live in a busy residential area so kids, balls, dogs & cats, bikes & traffic cannot be easily avoided. His anxieties meant it was physically and emotionally challenging (for both us and Binx) to take him anywhere outside the house or garden. Binx also started to develop some bad habits such as demand barking and chewing. All the advice pointed towards using exercise to help reduce these, relieve boredom and improve our relationship. “A tired dog is a good dog”. Being an energetic young pup he was clearly in need of a good run, but it was really hard to wear him out without pushing him over his anxiety threshold. Short of joining the ā€˜3am clubā€™ and walking him at absurd times, I needed more help.

The early realization that Binx needed so much input made me feel very guilty. With both my boyfriend and I having full-time jobs we didnā€™t feel like we had the hours in the day to give Binx the attention he required. Had we known before bringing him home that he had as much ā€˜baggageā€™ we would have considered that we were not ideal partners. We had always planned for having a weekday dog walker, but Binx needed a one-to-one approach and most dog walking services are not able to cater for this. After a couple of failed attempts with group walks, and lots of phone calls to various pet services, I was advised to get in touch with Social Paws. I was encouraged when I read the website describing their bespoke service. The founder, Helen Eade, specializes in reactive dogs and when we met her and saw her interacting with Binx I knew weā€™d found the right kind of assistance. I was somewhat obsessively reading whatever advice I could find on the Internet, in books and asking other dog owners for tips. So much information was given that it is easy to feel overwhelmed. Through bringing the guidance together, selecting out the bits that seem to work best for us, and with support from the dog daycare near me I have found my own ways of working with Binx.

Now, not a walk goes by without some form of desensitising and counter-conditioning. For us, dog walking requires more than a simple lead and poo bag, but pockets full of different value treats, a clicker, squeaker, ball, plus my total focus and attention. My right hand is constantly clutching a tasty treat, poised and ready to distract or reassure Binx if he becomes nervous, as well as rewarding any desirable behaviours.

Owning a reactive dog means I have learnt to be very observant of both Binxā€™s body language and our environment on our walks. As I am getting to know him I am more able to predict Binx’s reactions to different things and therefore react quickly to build up his confidence. If I spot a trigger in the distance I closely watch to see how Binx is reacting and respond appropriately. This often involves a swift change of direction to avoid another dog or focusing Binx with a treat or a command if he starts to get worked up, you can learn more tips like this one at this dog blog. Unlike other carefree dogs and owners in the park, our walks often end up monotonously trotting up and down a couple of streets on which Binx feels at ease.

Trying my very best to protect Binx’s welfare whilst carrying on with normal life can be very stressful. I sometimes find myself trying so hard to do everything right that it is easy to slip into a somewhat ā€˜neurotic motherā€™ role about the specifics of Binx’s routine, training techniques, commands & signals. Another challenge is other people’s reactions to Binx. To the untrained eye Binx’s nervous behaviour could easily look like aggression. If we are out on a training walk and Binx becomes hyper-vigilant and starts pulling on his lead, other people will sometimes give judgmental looks or even comment “control your dog”. This is very disheartening as I am putting in so much time and energy, and Binx IS showing some improvement.

Things have started to improve after a week of using cbd for pets. Helen also works with Binx twice a week for calming techniques, counter-conditioning and helps keep us on track with our own training. She is also a great help in reminding us of the progress being made. She understands how hard it can be to own a reactive dog, and offers invaluable advice and support to owners, not to mention incredible kindness and patience towards our dog.

Our walks are gradually becoming a thing of pleasure, and with his increased confidence we have now started to be able to explore further afield. Binx is a clever dog and has learnt all the basic commands, plus some extra fun things to keep his mind active (I had great fun teaching him to ā€œbegā€ and ā€œcrawlā€). Binx is able run off the lead a lot more now as he is sociable with other dogs and his recall is really improving. His little personality is now emerging, and he is an incredibly friendly, affectionate, playful pup.

To be continuedā€¦

Why enrichment is important for dogs

Enrichment is ESSENTIAL to helping promote the wellbeing of your dog

***Keep boredom at bay and help reduce destructive type behaviours***

Enrichment encourages an animal’s natural behaviours, providing different experiences for their senses. It’s essential to providing both mental and physical stimulation and keeping boredom at bay. More information can be found at dog behavior blog breeds .

If you don’t provide enrichment then your dog is more likely to perform undesirable behaviours instead. If you’re too stressed of being a dog owner, sites like ģ•„ė¦¬ģ•„ģ¹“ģ§€ė…ø can help you relax.

Put me in a room, with no TV, no books, sooner or later I will feel like peeling off the wall paper or perhaps even pulling out my hair! But in all seriousness enrichment is a vital part of your dog’s environment, we have a RESPONSIBILITY as owners to seek out and provide opportunities and choices for our dogs. By limiting enrichment we are simply denying the dog these opportunities. Can dogs have lobster? According to Article Insider’s blog, there is nothing in lobster that would be harmful or poisonous to a dog. Dogs should only eat lobster occasionally and in small amounts. Visit their website to read more.

Some simple ways to create these opportunities

? Problem solving interactive toys – a great way to provide mental stimulation. Often, these toys come in the form of puzzles, which hide treats, encouraging your dog to manipulate and investigate the toy.

? Interactive chew toys – my all time favourite is the Kong. Instead of feeding your dog out of a bowl, turn him/her into a chewaholic (learnt this through a vet online chat). Reinforcing this behaviour onto the kong means your best friend is less likely to chew the furniture and is provided with hours of fun.

? Hide and seek – a game of ‘find it’ will motivate your dog to investigate it’s natural surroundings to find a yummy treat. I hide treats behind bushes, under cones or even a small crevice in a tree.

So start enriching today

Enrichment in the form of games such as ģ•ˆģ „ė†€ģ“ķ„°, chew toys and activities can have not only proven to lower stress in dogs but encourage them to learn more efficiently. So don’t delay, start enriching today!

Thanks for listening
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For more advice and support email: helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

Why your dog is not being stubborn

COMMON MYTH: “my dog is stubborn!”

So if my dogs not stubborn then why WON’T he or she listen to me and HOW to HELP…

REALITY: Many dog owners call their dogs stubborn. In the human world this word is more commonly accepted, but dogs don’t think the same way as humans and there is always a reason behind their behaviour. They are not trying to manipulate, control or simply ignore you, just because they can.

Common reasons why your dog won’t listen to you and how to help

It’s confused – there’s a lack of clear and precise communication

Example: I’ve stood there waving my arms shouting out endless words “Juniper, come, Juniper here, Juniper now come on!”. All these words, all these commands, no wonder she’s so confused!

How to help: use short commands and try not to repeat over and over again. This will simply add to the confusion. Keep sessions short if your dog easily loses focus. And if your dog refuses to eat, then try this natural appetite stimulant for dogs.

It’s not motivated – your dog simply is not motivated to do the task you’ve requested

Example: why would Juniper in the photo move from the amazing pile of leaves for a little kibble? The kibble is not that exciting compared to the smells on offer, right beneath her feet!

How to help: experiment with lots of different rewards, remember what motivates one dog may not motivate another. I like to use the bronze, silver and gold system – rewarding the most amazing ‘paycheck’ for the task with more distance, distractions or duration.

Your dog is tired – your dog has just ran around the field five times, it’s simply tired

Example: Juniper has spent the last 45 minutes foraging, socialising and running in the water. She’s simply just taking a break.

How to help: ensure your dog has lots of breaks so he/she can focus for longer periods of times.

Your dog is not capable – this could be due to lack of experience, age, breed or a recent health issue

Example: Juniper has little experience retrieving a ball. I’ve just thrown a ball in the other direction of the leaves. She has no prior experience or knowledge of what to do. So stands there and waits. Improve your dog’s health by adding pumpkin supplement for dogs to their diet.

How to help: start each training task at its most basic. Ensure each task is suited to each individual dog. If your dog is a Havanese, check out this Havanese breed guide.

Your dog is fearful – your dog may be anxious in certain environments

Example: Juniper will not recall if she sees a cyclist. She will run in the opposite direction often seeking refuge near the leaves.

How to help: seek help from an accredited behaviourist to help rehabilitate your dog. Avoid exposing your dog to the trigger above it’s threshold (managing and controlling the behaviour). Taking your dog to a daycare can also provide them with a safe environment in which to meet other dogs. Your dog can learn canine communication skills and work on interacting properly with dogs they recognize as well as those they donā€™t. You can visit our highest ranked dog boarding facility, website.

Your dog dislikes the environment – your dog may dislike walking on hard surfaces

Example: Juniper doesn’t enjoy walking on the path so would prefer to forage in the leaves or walk on the grass.

How to help: never force your dog to do something it dislikes or if it is something that has to be done (ie vets visit) look at desensitising your dog to the environment or changing the way it feels to a more positive one.

Conclusion

So once you’ve found out the reason why your dog is not responding to you then you can begin addressing the training issue. Until then thinking your dog is being stubborn is not going to help the situation.

Thanks for listening
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For more advice and support email: Helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

Seeking consent and how to approach dogs

Dogs can show fear in different ways – ALWAYS get consent BEFORE you touch or approach a dog

Just because a dog looks friendly, is walking calmly or appears stress free, it does not always mean it is happy to be touched.

Dogs communicate very subtle body language, signs that they are a little unsettled or distressed. These signals are not always picked up by all, especially young children.

Always ask before approaching an unknown dog

Always ask consent from the dog owner and the dog before you touch it. This may mean taking the time to practice watching the dog’s body language or staying where you are so the dog can approach you in its own time.

Tips on how to approach an unknown dog

Approaching an unknown dog, head on, is a definite no no, as is bending down and patting it on the head. If someone random came over to me giving me a giant hug – this human equivalent would make me shudder (and feel slightly uncomfortable and on edge).

Just imagine what it’s like for the dog? A sudden rumbling voice, eyes staring down at them and a giant hand swooping down…Ekkkk!

So if you are walking past a dog on the street I advice walking at an arc, not giving direct eye contact and letting the dog make the first move if you want to say hello to it. I often offer a flat palm at a distance, so it can smell me first, or eat a yummy treat from it (with again consent from the owner). My body is slightly tilted away. Another thing I also practice is retreating and dropping a treat. That way the dog can follow me if it wishes knowing that I’m the predictor of good things!

How about friendly dogs?

On the flip side there are lots of dogs that love being stroked and approached by strangers, love a big hug or even a pat on the head. However you should still always ask consent first and not just assume that the dog is friendly.

Conclusion

Why ask consent? Well it’s just polite and good manners and helps reduce the likelihood of potential stray dog bite and bites from fearful dogs and helps build up their confidence, knowing they don’t have to fear the unpredictable!

Thanks for reading
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For more advice and support please get in touch: Helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

The dominance myth – the real reason behind your dog’s behaviours

HELP! My dog is dominant

The term ‘dominant’ gets misused alot in the dog training world. Many owners feel their dog is in command, influencing their power on others and despite what many dog owners think their dog is NOT trying to take over the world.

Dogs shouldn’t be given labels and often behaviours are specific to each individual situation. So let’s look at some examples where the word dominant is used inappropriately and how you can help:

Example 1: My dog dominates smaller dogs in the park

Some dogs have a bully like mentality, they appear confident and pushy targeting the smaller or younger dogs in the park. However these types of dogs are often anything but confident and there is often an underlying fearfulness or insecurity.

How can you help?

Control and manage the types of dogs your dog meets, have appropriate boundaries and set ups to keep your dog below its threshold. I would avoid the busy doggy parks and connect with other dog owners who can practice some parallel walking and appropriate meetings.

Example 2: My dog will growl at other dogs in the back of the dog walker’s van

Some dogs really don’t enjoy other dogs being in their space. Think of a situation where you are tightly compact on a train, or a random person sits by you on a bus and strikes a long conversation (when all you want to do is have a moment to yourself). Feels uncomfortable doesn’t it? So just imagine how a dog would feel if another dog kept invading his or her space, or if there is a lack of space for them to retreat safely too.

How can you help?

Ask if you can see the dog walker’s set up. She/he may need to change the location of where your dog travels or have extra room between crates. If the anxiety continues it may be an idea to swap to solo walks – where your dog can still meet other dogs at a distance below its threshold, but without the need to travel. You can also treat your dog’s anxiety with the best cbd for dogs. Click here to see the ideal CBD dosage plan for your dog. Read first about delta 9 and how much of it is safe. This article about the best delta 9 gummies is a great place to start your research.

Example 3: My dog plays so routh – she’s always trying to be the dominant dog, often scaring smaller dogs

Pushy play styles, which appear rough and one sided are nothing to do with dominance but often are a result of a lack of socialisation with appropriate play mates. Many dogs fail to read the other dog’s body language and often rough play was tolerated by a few dogs which they grew up with, then generalising to other dogs.

How can you help?

Controlled appropriate play meetings, where you can take your dog out of the situation before it becomes over aroused or too rough. You may need to practice watching both dogs body language and communication. Play must be two sided with lots of breaks.

Example 5: My dog won’t let me near the sofa! It’s taking over the house

Dogs that use aggression, otherwise known as ‘resource guarding’ to get what they want, or to warn others to keep their distance from a valuable resource are not displaying dominance, but rather anxiety-based behaviors These can then become over exasperated when faced with verbal and/or physical threats from their human owners. When one bases their interaction with their dog based on dominance it is harmful to the dog-human relationship and leads to further stress, anxiety and aggression from the dog, as well as fear and antipathy of the owner.

How can you help?

You need your dog to feel confident and relaxed when you are near and it’s highly valued resource, below its threshold. Counter conditioning can help change the way your dog feels and I always recommend contacting a accredited behaviourist for resource guarding issues.

Thanks for reading
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For more advice and support email: helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

Reasons why your dog may pull on the lead

COMMON MYTH: My dog does pulls on it’s lead because he’s dominant

REALITY: The concept of “dominance” is still being used incorrectly to explain inappropriate behaviour in dogs. This is because dominance actually describes a social relationship between two or more individuals and It is not a character trait. Despite what many people believe, dogs do not spend their time seeking to establish control over humans.

So why is my dog pulling on the lead…

There are various reasons why a dog pulls on lead, the most common is that he has not been taught correctly, is over excited or may be fearful. If your dog is doing something you don’t like, forget about worrying about “dominance.” Instead decide what it is you want your dog to do instead, and then proceed to teach him that and reward him for doing it right.

How can you help…

So before you can proceed to teach your dog the correct behaviour you must understand what is causing the inappropriate behaviour. I will briefly go through some common reasons as previously mentioned above.

? Because your dog has not been taught correctly

I am strongly against any regimented ‘pack leader’ methods which often involve a lead yank to direct the dog back to the correct place. My methods are more ‘free flowing’ and 100% force free concentrating more on a nice slack lead and focus towards the handler. Like any training task I start at the bare basics – helping to set the dog up for success. I advice a quiet garden where you can incorporate the 3 D’s gradually – Distance, Duration and Distractions.

? Because your dog is fearful

When working with Fear based lead pullers the goal is to reduce the anxiety/fear so the pulling is also reduced. In the initial stages I would suggest managing the environment, so only walking your dog in areas where they will see no trigger or low levels of the trigger. So the basics would be practising loose lead walking in the garden.The next step would be gradually exposing to environments where they can view the trigger at a safe distance, below their threshold. Over time you can build up the tolerance, increasing confidence, by introducing food as you see the trigger. The dog will see a positive association between the trigger and the food:

Sees a dog (trigger) = good things happen, yummy food!

Dog (trigger) disappears = food stops

I always advise contacting an accredited behaviourist for any fear based behaviour and a vet check (to rule out any medical issues attributing to the behaviour).

? Because your dog is excited

A dog may pull on the lead due to excitement of seeing another dog, getting to the field or when seeing a person. I would recommend working on impulse control, gradually building up the distractions, distance or/and duration gradually. You can also incorporate some focus exercises and relaxation techniques. If your dog is already excited before it even walks across the door step, how is it ever going to remain calm and focused on the walk?

Thanks for reading
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For more advice how to teach loose lead walking please get in touch: helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

What emotions do dogs feel?

COMMON MYTH: dogs feel human emotions like guilt and shame

REALITY: dogs are said to feel emotions such as joy, fear, anger, disgust and even love, however it seems likely that your dog will not have those more complex emotions like guilt, pride and shame.

Researchers have now come to believe that the mind of a dog is roughly equivalent to that of a human who is two to two-and-a-half years old. This conclusion holds for most mental abilities ā€” including emotions, meaning we can look to the human research to see what we might expect of our dogs. For more insights into the fascinating world of dogs, explore this post about All About Dogs.

A dogs emotions can be compared to that of a small child…

Like a young child, dogs will clearly have certain emotions, but many fewer kinds of emotions than we find in adults. This is because complex social emotions, those which have elements that must be learned, donā€™t appear until later in the child’s development. Shame and pride take more than three years to appear, while guilt even longer, appearing around six months after these. A child must be nearly four years of age before it feels contempt.

This developmental sequence is the key to understanding the emotions of dogs. Dogs go through their developmental stages much more quickly than humans do, and have all of the emotional range that they will ever achieve by the time they are four to six months of age (depending on the rate of maturing in their breed), hence the comparison with a younger child. The assortment of emotions available to the dog will not however exceed that which is available to a human who is two to two-and-a-half years old. This means that a dog will have all of the basic emotions: joy, fear, anger, disgust and even love, however according to current research it seems likely that your dog will not have those more complex emotions like guilt, pride and shame.

So why does my dog look guilty when it’s done something wrong?

So you’ve come home from work and find a large poop deposited on your carpet. No matter how much you try you can not hide your scrumpled face and often gasp out loud. It is only natural to conclude that the dog was acting in a way that shows that it is feeling guilty about the incident. However this is not guilt, but likely to simply be the more basic emotion of fear. The dog has learned that when you appear and his poop is visible on the floor, your whole body posture, expression changes and your tone of voice may raise. What you see is his fear of punishment, even if you never actually physically punish your dog the mere fact that you are acting differently or appear angry is punishing in itself, so if you need you think to spend a lot of time away from home leaving your dog alone, maybe a boarding home like WoofConnect can be the best solution for you.

So what can we learn from this…

As a dog’s emotions are similar to that of a younger child it’s important to treat them always with the greatest respect. Understand like us they experience fear, so think if you are doing something that is causing unnecessary stress, please stop.

Thanks for reading
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)
Helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

Training through trust not though fear

Why teach a dog through fear, when you can teach through trust?

Positive reinforcement, trust and mutual respect is the way forward…

An effective and ethical way to train a dog is to focus on the animal-human relationship building on trust and mutual respect whilst teaching a variety of behaviours through lots of positive reinforcement.These methods have proved highly effective working with a variety of breeds of dogs of all mixed sizes and ages and reactive/anxious dogs.

The problem with adversives…

It takes very little skill to simply strap on a prong collar, or yank a dogs lead. These methods have been well documented to cause fear or pain to suppress the behaviour of the dog. Short term, people see instant results, however these are misleading and unethical as the underlying cause of the behaviour is not addressed and this can be potentially dangerous to both dog and owner. Often we see the behaviour re-surface in other ways, the dog shuts down or a negative association is attributed to the owner, destroying any trust or loyalty. Using force free, reward based methods takes much skill and a deep understanding of canine cognition, where we can study the thought processes of the dog and not simply cover up the problem. We can not only help change the way a dog feels, but empower them to make the right choices – thus improving the relationship and reinforcing the animal-human bond.

Emotions similar to that of a small child…

Many argue that dogs do not feel or think the same way as humans, however research has shown that they in fact show the same emotions of that of a small child.

So here’s a little food for thought; you wouldn’t frighten or inflict pain on a small child so why would you use training methods that do so on a dog?

Thanks for reading
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)

For further advice and support email me on: helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

The benefits of a game of tug

COMMON MYTH: “You should never play tug of war because this can make your dog aggressive”

Why tug of war is a great game for your best friend…

Tug of war is a great game to play with your best friend and will not create aggression if done correctly. Dogs should learn that it’s ok to grip the toy with their mouths, but not your hands. Any skin contact and the game stops and I redirect again to the toy. You can teach them the drop command when you’re ready to end the game. Simply reinforce this behaviour by making the tug toy become life and limpless and as soon as your dog stops or drops the toy start the game again!

Life and limpless = no fun
Movement = lots of fun!

Overtime you can introduce the command “drop” or “leave” just before the toy becomes lifeless. As your dog leaves it you can then continue the play session or trade up for a more exciting alternative. Using the game of tug as a reinforcer instead of food is actually very common among many dog sports competitors and trainers with working dogs because dogs find it incredibly motivating and enjoyable!

Thanks for listening
Helen Motteram, BSc (hons)
Helen@socialpawscheltenham.co.uk

https://skincareskills.com